Until fairly recently, Argentina was a backwater for oenophiles. It was a big producer of low-quality table wines for local quaffing. That is changing fast, especially since a devaluation in 2002. Foreign investment has poured in and exports have boomed. Thanks partly to the arrival of foreign winemakers, quality has greatly improved. Nowadays Argentines themselves drink beer and less, but finer, wine. (...)Fuente:
One might think that Argentina ought to be winning this battle hands down. It is the world's fifth-biggest wine producer, and has endless suitable land. Chilean winemakers envy their neighbours' trademark Malbec grape, which produces a potent red wine that has become known across the world. Fresh, perfumed whites made with Torrontés grapes, mainly around Salta, are similarly distinctive, if less complex. By contrast, Chile exports mostly standard varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, which are widely produced across the world. Its only unique grape is Carmenère, from which it is far trickier to make good wine.
Argentina's exports to the United States are growing much faster than those of Chile. That may be partly because its robust, fruit-packed wines are to American taste. Wine Spectator, the bible for American oenophiles, gives ratings of 90 points or over (out of 100) to 172 reds from Argentina, compared with 138 from Chile. The $120-a-bottle top wine of Achával-Ferrer, a locally-owned boutique vineyard, was recently given a 95.
But Chile has some powerful strengths of its own. A wealth of different terroirs nestle among secluded valleys; cool Pacific breezes make it possible to produce fine white wines as well as reds. And last year Wine Spectator gave 96 points to Don Melchor 2003, the top Cabernet from Concha y Toro, the largest wine firm.
Chile's greater economic stability has also helped. “With quality wines, you need 15 to 20 years for an investment to mature,” says Aníbal Ariztía of the main winegrowers' association. Since 1995, the area under vines in Chile has doubled to 100,000 hectares (250,000 acres). In Argentina, the total area has remained static, though vine quality has improved. (...)
Argentine winemakers may face bigger headaches. Record profits have attracted a flood of new investment. But double-digit inflation has caused wages and the cost of inputs to soar. José Manuel Ortega, of O. Fournier, a Spanish vineyard in Mendoza, reckons that the cost of building a winery has quadrupled in dollar terms since 2002. A 5% tax on wine exports and the government's lack of interest in trade agreements are further obstacles. That points to a coming shake-out: Mendoza alone has more than 800 separate producers. But for now, variety and innovation continue to thrive on both sides of the Andes.
The Economist
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